Owner: Fashion accessories & designer ties URL:http://patrickmcmurraysfashionaccessories.blogspot.com/ Join Date: Fri, 09 Feb 2007 02:02:44 -0600 Rating:0 Site Description: Here you will find historic anecdotes about fashion, accessories and silk ties, textiles and the progress of silk weaving in England. Plus current news on emerging & established textile and fashion designers, including, Timothy Everest, Cressida Bell, Sim Site statistics:Click here
Kenzo Takada 1970-01-01 00:59:59 Kenzo Takada Japan's contribution to the world of fashion design Kenzo Takada (高田賢三 Takada KenzÅ, born 27th February 1939 in Himeji Japan is a Japanese fashion designer. He is also the founder of Kenzo, a world famous brand of silk ties, cufflinks, perfumes, skincare products and clothes. Kenzo's love for fashion developed at an early age, particularly through reading his sisters' magazines. He shortly attended the University of Kobe, where he felt bored and eventually withdrew, against the will of his family. In 1958, he joined a fashion school, Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College which had then just opened its doors to male students. In 1964 Takada Kenzo moved to Paris, not without adaptation problems. He started at the very bottom of the fashion industry. He worked as a freelance designer and opened his first boutique "Jungle Jap' in 1970. He presented his first show at the Vivienne Gallery and one of his models appeared in the cover of ELLE; His first work borrowed Read more:Kenzo
silk weavers and tie makers in England 1970-01-01 00:59:59 World class silk weaving in Suffolk, with a client list to die for, including Hugo Boss, Prada, Polo Ralph Lauren, Dunhill, Christian Dior, Hermes, Vivian Westwood and Chanel to mention more than a few. Expert tie manufactures dotted around the country making for all the big English brand names and most of the Savile Row tailors. Proof that Britain can compete in a bespoke arena but not in a mass production arena. One weaver operates as an export led organisation with more than 75% of its production going overseas. The company has customers in USA, Japan, Germany, France, Italy and many other countries. They've survived for more than 200 years. What an impressive record, but how many Brits know about it? It's a good time to learn a little about what goes on behind the scene in the fashion industry. Then you will appreciate the item you buy and display a lot more. Why? Because you know the story and you're capturing a little English history.If you're looking for unique silk ti Read more:England
19th century:The business suit takes shape 1970-01-01 00:59:59 The well-dressed man about town should wear clothes that are simple, functional and discreet, George Bryan "Beau" Brummell commanded in the early 19th century. By advocating well-cut, tailored clothes, Brummell essentially invented what has come to be known as the "British look." Brummell rejected 18th century frills. His mandate, a dark blue coat, buff-coloured pantaloons and waistcoat, black boots and a clean white neck cloth, survives today as the dark business suit, white shirt and silk tie.He was particularly adamant about the whiteness of his cravats. As he made his daily rounds from the park, various gentleman's clubs and fashionable homes, Brummell would stop and change his cravat as often as three times a day. He preferred neck cloths that were lightly starched and carefully folded.The simplicity of Brummell's uniform was adopted by everyone from many working men to his friend, the Prince Regent, later King George IV. For the first time, poorer men hoping to make their way
What does it madder 1970-01-01 00:59:59 We keep getting MadderThe "madder" part of this lovely phrase refers to a natural dye from a Eurasian herbaceous plant, Rubia tinctoria, the root of which was used since ancient times as a regal dyestuff. Thus "ancient" madder. Since the 19th Century the dye has primarily been used on silk, producing beautifully deep, muted and soft colorations of red, green, chocolate, medium blue, and yellow. Silk dyed in this manner is characterized by a dusty-looking finish and a feel (referred to as a chalk hand by the experts) very much like fine suede, and a matte finish. And not just any silk. A special "gum" silk, is used. The silk is first boiled to remove its natural gum (an organic resin), dyed, and then the fabric is bathed in a new gum-based solution that gives it its characteristic soft handle and heft. Today the process is employed mainly for neckwear printed in England in a paisley or small geometric pattern. The colouring agent in madder root - called alizarin — wa
Timothy Everest and Tommy Nutter 1970-01-01 00:59:59 The Spitalfield flower is a signature pattern created by Huguenot silk weavers in the 1800's. Today recognised as the trademark of the TimothyEverest
brand. As one of the architects and leading practitioners of the New Bespoke Movement, Timothy Everest has spent the past decade introducing a new generation of men and women to the joys of handmade clothing. His apprenticeship with Tommy
Nutter (legendary tailor to the Beatles and The Rolling Stones) has enabled him to side step the stuffiness of Savile Row whilst employing its peerless standards of craftsmanship. He stresses individuality over the dictates of high fashion, whilst bringing a designer eye to bear on invigorated, contemporary tailoring. His new range of ready to wear silk ties will be featured on patrickmcmurray.com being the first online shop to do so. This indicates Timothy's willingness to embrace new technology.
Who created the school tie and the sporting tie? 1970-01-01 00:59:59 Cambridge and Oxford School ties The I Zingari Cricket Club, founded by a group of Cambridge University students in 1845 is believed to have created the first sporting colours. They designed a flag of black, bright, orange-red, and gold, symbolizing "out of darkness, through fire, into light." Blazers, caps, and ties were eventually created in these colours.In 1880, the rowing club at Oxford University's Exeter College One men's club, invented the first school tie by removing their ribbon hat bands from their boater hats and tying them, four-in-hand. When they ordered a set of ties, with the colours from their hatbands, they had created the modern school tie. School, club, and athletic ties appeared in abundance. Some schools had different ties for various grades, levels of achievement, and for graduates.Such ties had enormous appeal to the vast Victorian middle class. As industrialization allowed for mass consumption of material goods, men wanted to stand out, to assert their socia
Huguenot Silk Weavers 1970-01-01 00:59:59 The Huguenots were French and Flemish Protestants who fled their own countries because of religious persecution. There were two main waves of Huguenot migration - in the latter half of the sixteenth century and towards the end of the seventeenth century. In all, over 200,000 Huguenots fled to the UK and Netherlands.Huguenot migrants possessed considerable knowledge of the textiles industries -especially silk-making. The Courtauld family established a prospering silk industry at Braintree, Essex, while Huguenot weavers also concentrated in the Spitalfields area of London. Lewis (Or Louis) Paul invented the method of roller spinning that was later developed by Richard Arkwright to such great effect. Today companies such as Stephen Walters silk weavers for nine generations and Vanners carry on the silk weaving in Suffolk England. Many British designers are using these companies to produce world class fabrics for their silk ties. Minimum quantities are relatively small so it suppor
Mr Ian Flaherty 1970-01-01 00:59:59 I first met Ian Flaherty
when visiting him at his humble studio - workshop on Lavender Hill Clapham London. A Scouser by birth and a master of cufflink design and manufacture, he guided me through all its processes from inception to shirt cuff. Knowing this I'd happily pay £65.00 for a pair of his Swarovski cufflinks, "what's the value of art"? Although he occupies the same arena as Paul Smith, Duchamp and Simon Carter he's not in competition with them, his designs are uniquely original and that's refreshing in this day and age of copycats. You can find his designer cufflinks in British high street stores, America, Japan and Australia, "I thought it was too hot down under to even wear a shirt" in fact Australia is one of Ian's biggest export marketsIan is happy being labelled as the quiet achiever, a little British bleeder carving out a niche in the fashion retail rock face.
Simon Carter "king of cufflinks" 1970-01-01 00:59:59 In 1985 a quiet revolution began when SimonCarter
started selling pewter brooches for men. By the late 80's Carter was selling designer cufflinks. He introduced fresh and exciting designs and revolutionised the men's accessories market, which had been stagnant for many years. As he gathered pace other emerging designers joined the band and together helped popularise cufflinks. At last men were getting the choice they demanded, Simon Carter
kept in tune with his customers needs and he continued to deliver accordingly. More designers joined the revolution and their advance grew stronger each year. Simon Carter then ventured further into men's accessories introducing an impressive range of wallets, belts and designer ties, uniquely branded with Carters un-mistakable style.Now us chaps have the choice we deserve. Thank you Simon Carter, Ian Flaherty, Duchamp, Paul Smith, Kit Heat, Jo Downs, Kenzo, Feraud and Murray Ward.
Louis Feraud 1970-01-01 00:59:59 As from the day that Louis
Fraud opened the door of his boutiques in Cannes 1950 and Paris 1954, he was unanimously recognized as a master of his art. This artist stands out clearly in 1955 when he presents his first Couture collection which is characterised by vibrant colours, typical of his Mediterranean background and inspired by his love of Spanish and Latin American cultures. After a magnificent career, he dies in 1999 at 79 years of age. It is thanks to the strength of his example that he continues, through his creations. Later Feraud
would venture into men's suiting, casual wear and a range of accessories and classic silk ties, all uniquely Feraud in style and colour. Now we can enjoy the vibrancy of his art, which have been transformed into fashion items, like silk ties, sport jackets and suiting.
Designer tie 1970-01-01 00:59:59 The 1920’s was a significant year for the tie. Two major innovations occurred on two different continents which changed the tie forevever. This was the decade that saw it being completely re-engineered and re-styled. Thanks to pioneering Paris fashion designer Jean Patou who invented the designer tie. He made silk ties from women’s clothing material. Targeted towards women purchasers, his expensive ties were highly successful. Jesse Langsdorf, an American tailor, discovered that by cutting the tie on the bias of the cloth, the tie would be much more resilient and long- wearing. Cut slightly off bias, the tie would pull off-centre and fall crookedly, but if cut at exactly 45 degrees, the aprons of the tie would drape elegantly, straight down from the knot. He also constructed his ties using three different pieces of silk (the blade, the gusset and the under end) sewn together. He patented his idea and sold it to the world. Today, designer ties abound. Designer
s create some th
Simon Carter designer wallets 2007-03-02 08:37:00 Simon Carter
Designer Wallets We’re familiar with Simon Carter
’s reputation of being the “King of Cufflinks” His designer ties are starting to populate more and more stores and then there’s his casual wear. But have you seen his wallets? Now lets face it, there’s only so much one can do to design a wallet that truly differs. Paul Smith wallets have bright stripes, others with photos of mini minors embossed. Richard James uses bright colours on the inside of his wallets as do many other designers, pretty ordinary “Simon Carter take centre stage” he bought the rights of a cartoon strip, transferred to fabric using digital print and then used the brightly coloured material to line his jeans wallets. This is what I call smart design and they’re functional too, lightweight, they slip in and out of small pockets easily. Read more:Simon
English Classic Ties 2007-03-15 08:48:00 Did you know that the I Zingari Cricket Club, founded by a group of Cambridge University students in 1845 is believed to have created the first sporting colours? They designed a flag of black, bright, orange-red, and gold, symbolizing "out of darkness, through fire, into light." Blazers, caps, and ties were eventually created in these colours. This gave birth to the first striped ties, which are ever popular today. In order to keep alive tradition, Patrick McMurray in association with Stephen Walters, Michelsons and a small group of designers are planning to launch a range of quintessential English
styles. Under the banner of English Classic
Ties (ECT) the collection will include woven striped silk ties in the tradition of sporting and school colours, English madder prints and of course paisley. So there will be something suitable for most occasions and they’ll all be made right here in England, which is a refreshing change.
Fashion or Style? 2007-03-20 08:07:00 Try to chart the course of fashion and you’ll need more than a sexton, compass and telescope, to navigate to its beginning. The rise and fall of fashion is like waves in a storm filled ocean. Charting the course of style is much easier, it has a known beginning, its progress can be documented and unlike the turbulent fluctuations of fashion, style dictates a constant theme that has the ability to cross cultural barriers and oceans. One prime example of style to note is Harris Tweed; it’s been constant through many decades of fashion fluctuations. The dark business suit dates back to the early nineteenth century, initiated by Beau Brummell, this style continues today. The tie dates back thousands of years. For the past eighty years the tie as we know it has remained pretty much the same. So let’s drop a few names of individuals who initiated styles, Coco Chanel, Jean Patou, Beau Brummell, Amelia Bloomer, Jessie Langsdorf, Tommy Nutter, Vivian Westwood, Oxford University, and Camb Read more:Fashion
, Style
Women in Uniform 2007-03-19 09:17:00 Although women have probably always adorned their necks, they did not wear neckties until the later 1800s. Feminine versions of men's neckties began to appear along with the more tailored clothing women wore while bicycling, skating, hiking, or boating. A pioneer of the Rational Dress Movement, Englishwoman Amelia Bloomer, invented a pair of long, loose woman's pants, which bear her name.Even more women began wearing ties, and trousers, during World War 1, as millions of women headed to offices and factories to fill the vacancies created by men at war. Women
in uniform are so appealing, even more so in a suit and tie. A tie draped down a woman states the obvious on both sides and points the way, such a handsome package. Read more:Uniform
A well travelled silk tie 2007-03-28 08:16:00 I had the pleasure of spending three hours with Chloe a young attractive representative from Stephen Walters silk weavers of Sudbury Suffolk. She’s been assigned to assist with design input for a new range of silk ties due to be released in September 2007 under the banner “English-Classic-Ties”. When it comes to knowing her stuff Chloe is right up there with the best of them. I thought I new a bit about the weaving industry, I soon found out I did only know a bit. I learned a lot in three hours and probably would have learned more if hadn’t let her good looks distract me from listening. I’m certain she was not distracted by similar thoughts. It was obvious where her focus was, intent on delivering the service she was trained to do. Now why on earth would anyone buy woven silks from England? Why not go to China? It’s much cheaper. Well the silk industry in China is booming like never before, it’s bursting at the seams and spilling over into the Yangtze River and other
From Genoa to Jeans and from Nimes to Denim 2007-04-02 13:30:00 I was going through my evening rituals, which amongst other things includes laying out a carefully planned set of clothes for the next work day. This saves me the hassle of clumsily fumbling through my mind in the early morning while the engine is still cold. The final selection accords to pre-planned activities for the day ahead. With this in mind I chose a denim shirt by King Gee (Australia), silk tie by Timothy Everest (Savile Row London), a pair of grey flannel trousers by Jaeger (England), for the feet, a pair of blue and white Converse All Stars (America), dark lightweight Harris Tweed jacket (England) and a leather belt by RM Williams (Australia) this is the gear you need for working at the coalface, functionality rules the way. I call it the lean-clean style, it’s casual by framework, loose and comfortable, but formalised enough with the introduction of neckwear. So I can get into action, throw off the jacket, roll the sleeves up, loosen the tie and get it done. Each item Read more:Denim
, Jeans
The rule of thumb 2007-04-04 08:33:00 "The rule of thumb" This much used phrase originated in Ireland. A husband could lawfully beat his wife with a stick providing it was no wider or thicker than his thumb. Leather belts were also used to deliver beatings to the wife. In some Victorian schools they were still strapping kids with leather belts in the 1960's. I've got the scars to prove it, oh well there goes my age, but not my dignity. Now there are belts and there are BELTS. Most men prefer BELTS as most men prefer BLONDES. I guess it has something to do with bigness, "big belts, big buckles, big boobs" I'm just making this up as I go along; it kind makes sense, more so than a long of pop songs. Moving up a notch, a "well hung" tie should sit just atop of the belt, any longer and the buckle which is the focal point will be hidden. The tip of the tie points to the private parts the blade width accentuates them. A handsome, strong buckle draws attention to the general area, hopefully from women and
The price we pay for silk 2007-04-09 10:30:00 In Lao villages obscurely remote from the world we know an age old process continues with Loa women at the helm of wooden looms. Producing sublimely raw silk fabrics, they live and work in harmony with their environment supported by sustainable industry. In stark contrast to China where the silk industry is booming like never before, it’s bursting and the seams, spilling into the Yangtze River and polluting the moon and stars. China’s production of silk products has outgrown their ability to produce enough fabric, forcing them to source supply from international markets. It mirrors the nursery rhyme about the hare and the tortoise. Can China sustain its growth? Can Lao villages sustain their industry? We rely on our environment to support us, so protecting and nurturing our environment is essential to sustain life. Mr Robert Hawke Australian Prime Minister 1983 to 1995 once quoted “The way to global economic stability is through protecting your environment” he was immediate Read more:price
Cufflinks for collectors 2007-04-11 10:33:00 If Simon Carter is proclaimed “King of Cufflinks
” then Ian Flaherty must certainly a contender for “Universal Monarch of Cufflinks” Visit Ian at his studio in Lavender Hill Clapham and you’ll find him working at the coal face with his subordinates, unafraid to get his hands dirty. A Scouser by birth and the son of a builder he chose a different career path that lead him out of working class Liverpool and into London, the fashion capitol of the world. After designing for many prestigious brand names Ian thought it was time to harness his energies and direct them toward developing his own brand. It’s been a long road from Liverpool, now his delightful cufflinks are displayed in some of the most famous department stores around the world, including Selfridges and John Lewis (UK), Nordstroms (USA) David Jones (Australia) plus stores in Japan with un-pronounceable names. The cufflink market is becoming more crowded as designer brands try to cash in on the growing populari Read more:collectors
LONDON SQUARE MILE AND ITS MOVEABLE STYLE 2007-04-18 11:33:00 London’s square mile is the most affluent square mile in the world. Out of a total city Workforce of 336,000 there are 80,000 millionaires. Every year, city bonuses amount to around £20billion. The city of London is one of the most competitive, successful and vibrant places on earth. ‘London swings like a pendulum do, Bobbies on bicycles two by two’ It’s the third most popular destination for young travellers, the first being San Francisco USA and the third Sydney Australia. Style has billowed out of this city like smoke did from its factories during the industrial revolution, now it’s the style revolution. All roads lead to London, forcing cultures foreign and native to mingle. From this melting pot styles emerge representing all classes. The cockney cabbie occupy the same square mile as the millionaire, the cockney shares little in it’s takings but much in its fame and glory. His stereotype has been characterised in many famous West End and Broadway plays, and Holl
The Old School Tie, a style creation 2007-04-27 08:39:00 It’s well documented that in 1880, the rowing club at Oxford University's Exeter College, invented the first school tie. After an emotional win over their rivals, they celebrated by removing their ribbon hat bands from their boater hats and tying them, four-in-hand around their necks. When they ordered a set of ties, with the colours from their hatbands, they had accidentally created the modern school tie. School
, club, and athletic ties appeared in abundance. Some schools had different ties for various grades, levels of achievement, and for graduates. Thanks to historians and their method of accurate documentation all the original college colours are still available from archived samples and replicate ties can be made to order. The four in hand knot used to tie their hat ribbons, which later became one of the most popular ways to tie a tie has its own unique origin. Coachman who lead a team of two horses en route would take the four reins, two for each horse, and tie them in
SAVILE ROW PAST AND PRESENT EPISODE ONE 2007-04-25 08:46:00 It wasn’t so long ago when Savile Row cabled information back and forth; one example can be evidenced way back in 1921, when, Crown Prince Hirohito of Japan commissioned Henry Poole & Co to create Westernized suits for his state tour of Britain. One of Poole's representatives sailed to Gibraltar with pattern templates where he met The Crown Prince aboard his destroyer. The final measurements were cabled to London so the order would be accomplished three weeks later when the Prince reaches the UK. Cabling as with email and online shopping has helped flatten and shrink the world. So no matter where you are in the world you can go to Savile Row by going online and purchasing some fine English made products. Shirts, suits, silk ties, hats and gloves are available for your pleasure and convenience. And just like in 1921 when Savile Row went to Crown Prince Hirohito in Gibraltar, online shopping comes to you no matter where you are. Have things changed all that much? Or just got
SAVILE ROW PAST AND PRESENT EPISODE TWO 2007-05-02 08:39:00 In 1971 Maverick screen actress Katherine Hepburn, whose long-term lover Spencer Tracey was a customer of Huntsman, takes the extraordinary step of ordering bespoke denim jeans from her late lover's Savile Row tailor. Hepburn's commission foreshadows bespoke denim collections launched in 2006 by Timothy Everest and Evisu. Timothy Everest has launched a new service, where he is applying the same standards and techniques to his jeans as he does to his suits. The whole process takes four to six weeks, with three fittings by his tailors to refine every detail. Evisu was one of the first Japanese denim labels to become famous outside of Japan in the early Nineties. The brand’s founder, Hidehiko Yamane, bought vintage Levi’s looms to produce his artisan denim using traditional methods. You can even buy bespoke jeans. Katherine Hepburn created a style that elevated denim to a new level of acceptance. Thirty eight years later the style continues its climb up the ladder.
Savile Row Anecdotes 2007-05-07 08:58:00 Savile Row has survived as the number one tailoring precinct in the world precisely because it has changed with the times. In fact, no other precinct is instantly recognisable by name anywhere else. Many styles that we take for granted today are embryonic of Savile Row. Here are a few examples of how Savile Row has remained at the forefront of sartorial innovation and how its new generations’, one after the other have set new standards through instituting change and at times causing a little controversy along the way. 1860Bertie, the rakish Prince of Wales, ordered a short smoking jacket to wear at informal dinner parties at Sandringham from his friend, the tailor, Henry Poole. It was the first dinner jacket on record and was cut in midnight blue cloth. In 1886, a Mr James Potter of Tuxedo Park, New York, was a houseguest at Sandringham. He consequently ordered a similar dinner jacket to Bertie's from Henry Poole & Co. It was this dinner jacket that Mr Potter wore at the Tu
Bolo: the Tie that won the west 2007-05-14 08:39:00 Have you ever seen Texans or Arizonians wearing what looks like a thin leather thong around their necks leading from a buckle at the shirt collar? If so you’ve probably thought it dates back to the Wild West. That’s what I thought until a little research revealed quite a surprise. It’s called a Bolo or Bola and proclaimed the official neckwear for Arizona. This must be one of the most original American styles, the Converse All Star being another; ironically its advent was the outcome of an accident. Had it not been for the loss of a hat in the wind and a quick thinking Arizonian, the style would never have come to fruition? It’s a bit like the story about the advent of the first school tie, another accidental style, which also involved hats and hat bands.In the late 1940s, a silversmith named Victor Cedarstaff went riding with friends in the Bradshaw Mountains outside Wickenburg, Arizona. When the wind blew his hat off, Cedarstaff removed the hatband, which had a silver buckle
Why choose a Michelsons Silk Tie? 2007-06-08 03:00:00 Michelsons was founded in 1937 and is the UK's leading manufacturer of silk ties and menswear accessories. Based in Sittingbourne in the County of Kent, Michelsons employs a workforce fully versed in the traditions and craftsmanship of fine neckwear manufacture, skills which they pride in the quality of their product and the fact that it is made in England. So far, so good, one reason to buy a Michelsons silk tie, at least you know where it comes from, wait there’s more reasons. If you’re going to expel energy searching, locating and purchasing a silk tie, it makes good sense to ensure that you’re getting something worthy of your efforts. Hastily choosing a cheap tie will mean repeating the whole process again far sooner than necessary, because the tie you got for a ‘bargain’ starts falling apart at the seams. £29.00 will get a high quality silk tie made in England by Michelsons from imported silks. Properly cared for it will last you many years. A lot of men would b Read more:choose
A Short History about an English Madder Silk Tie 2007-06-13 00:56:00 The English
madder silk tie is recognised worldwide as an icon of British style. It’s a home grown classic with a proud heritage and a distinct provenance. The “madder” part of this lovely phrase refers to a natural dye from a Eurasian herbaceous plant, Rubia tinctoria. Its continuing success through decades of rise and fall owe much too scientific intervention. The colouring agent in madder root called alizarin was in fact first chemically extracted and then synthesized in 1869 by two English chemists. Although the dyeing process, even today, requires a variety of painstaking steps, synthesized alizarin brought the price within the reach of commercial producers. Testimony to the significant part science plays ensuring the longevity of styles and textiles. Silk dyed in this manner is characterized by a dusty-looking finish and a feel (referred to as a chalk hand by the experts) very much like fine suede, and a matte finish. Continuing, madder ties adorn the necks of Englis Read more:History
, Short
Silk Ties by Vivienne Westwood, co-founder of the Punk Style 2007-06-22 05:12:00 As a stylist Vivienne Westwood has remained peerless for decades. From co-founder
of the punk style to Dame of The British Empire, it’s been a long road out of Tintwistle to the international fashion arena and back again. She managed to tuck some big names under her belt during her travels too, like Wedgwood. And a few best designers of the year awards as well. Vivienne doesn’t waste her breath giving lip service to originality and individuality, she lives and breathes them. Just a glance at her credentials will reveal this to be true and allay any doubt of her ability to stay ahead of the pack. At sixty six her mind remains young and vibrant in spite of her aging body. And she doesn’t wear knickers even when accepting her DBE, now how original is that? Vivienne Isabel Swire was born in Glossopdale, Derbyshire, on 8 April 1941. Her mother had been a weaver in the local cotton mills and her father came from a family of shoemakers. Her parents ran a sub post office in Tintwi Read more:Style
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