January 10, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Pezzi King Chardonnay, Sonoma County, 2001Overwhelming butter aroma, golden yellow from barrel aging. Not my bag, baby, but probably works for a lot of American palates.Araucano Sauvignon Blanc, Chile, 2003Pleasant. Fresh grassy aromas, strong grapefruit flavors and brisk acidity.
Read more: January
January 7, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2005Very pale straw color, strikingly little nose that dissipates almost immediately. Crisp, almost biting acid, tart lemon and pear flavors, and a medium to long finish. Interesting and different wine, but I'd only drink as a refresher in warm months.
Read more: January
January 1, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Mulderbosch / Stellenbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2005 (South Africa)Pleasant grapefruit aroma, flavors of green pepper and asparagus, a bit too acidic for my taste (which is saying something), and a satisfying medium to long finish.
Read more: January
January 15, 2006
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Equis Vinas Viejas, Sin Filtracion, 2004The initial strong petrol aroma and tightness give way to a medium-bodied, lipsmacking number with bold cherry and blackberry flavors. The tannin is a little rough but overall this is a nicely structured wine that is drinkable now and will probably be much better in a year or two. Let this one breathe a bit or decant it.
Read more: January
January 17, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Covey Run Riesling, Columbia Valley, 2004 Mildly floral, this Kabinett-style Riesling is very well-balanced. Scintillating floral aromas and sopping with floral peach and pear flavors and hints of apple, butter and citrus. Easy drinking and at about $8, great value.
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January 16, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
PreVail Back Forty 2003 (Cabernet-based blend)This blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah, and 3% Cabernet Franc is a rich, full-bodied wine that delivers up loads of spice, and hints of chocolate and mint. Moderately but not unpleasantly tannic for a young wine, it also has a long and subtle finish. I don't think it's worth the additional cost over PreVail's (a Ferrari-Carano label) almost identical West Face blend, but a nice spurge nonetheless.
Read more: January
January 23, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Other New York WinesRivendell Winery, SoHo Chardonnay 2005This non-ML, unoaked Chardonnay opens with a slight petrol aroma, but delivers an intensely lemon flavor. Crisply acidic, with a medium to long finish, and a real bargain at nine bucks. Rivendell 2005 Cabernet SauvignonFlavors of blackberry and a bit of smoke; light-to-medium bodied and a bit of spice. Interesting and enjoyable but not a good example of the varietal. Vineyard 48 Sauvignon Blanc 2005Reasonably well balanced and smooth, it lacked zest and did little for me. Not nearly as crisp as earlier vintages from this North Fork, Long Island winery. Pellegrini Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2002Light bodied, smoky, and crisp with a nice structure and black cherry fruit. Well done. Baldwin Vineyards Mist diGreco This blend of Chardonnay (70%) and Seyval Blanc (30%) offers an interesting earthy nose for a white. Lemon and butter flavors, a hint of sweetness, and a medium finish. Intriguing. Baldwin Vineyards "Memories" Brut Spa
Read more: January
January 22, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Benmarl Winery, Marlboro, New YorkBenmarl Syrah 2005A remarkably good wine example of the varietal. Deep purple; rich, dense and lush in the Aussie style, with crisp acidity, nicely structured, and a medium to long finish. So good I thought I was down under. Benmarl Zinfandel 2005Loads of spice, fruit-forward black cherry flavors, a bit of pepper, medium finish. Well worth a try. Benmarl Baco Noir 2005A very nice job on this varietal that most Americans have never heard of or tasted. Lots of smoke, black fruit and a medium to long finish. Reminds me of Charbono, another nearly-lost varietal. Benmarl Chambourcin 2003A hybrid whose parentage is in dispute, this vigorous grape offers vegetal aromas, dark cherry flavors, moderate tannins, and smoke. Mostly used as an "uncredited" blending wine but worth a try as a varietal. Benmarl "Sweet Sarah" NVAfter a taste, I couldn't resist a bottle of this interesting dessert wine (using frozen grapes in the eiswein style) made from the Primitivo g
Read more: January
January 4, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
PreVail Cabernet Sauvignon, West Face, 2003This dense and powerful combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from Ferrari-Carano helps round out that producer's fine whites, alongside its sister PreVail Back Forty. I don't taste the fraction of Cab Franc that's supposedly in there, but I do taste the smoke and the fruit, with a nice balance and polished tannins. Drink now but perhaps put a few bottles down. Good on Don Carano for being wholly unsatisfied with his previous red wine offerings. Not sure, though, why he labels it as though he never heard of Ferrari-Carano.
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January 14, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Antihilia Donnafuguta Sicilia, 2004This Sicilian gem is made from 50% Ansonica and 50% Catarratto. Almost unheard-of in the US, it presents aromas of citrus and melon, citrus and peach flavors and a nice finish. Reminiscent of Rousanne. Unusual and very nice. Domaine La Prevote Sauvignon, Touraine, 2003Decent Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire. About halfway between the more mellow French and zesty New Zealand styles. Had last night with Sushi and was a nice accompaniment. Nothing special, but good value.
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January 28, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Brimstone Hill Vineyard Seyval Blanc 2005Very little nose, strong citrus aroma, crisply acidic, medium finish. Worth a try; I bought a couple bottles to taste as home.Brimstone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004Young and green but promising. Lacks the earthy aroma that many Pinot aficionados enjoy. Black cherry fruit, nicely balanced and smooth.Brimstone Hill Vineyard Merlot 2004Presents typical varietal flavors and spice, a bit too acidic, may do ok after it ages and softens a bit. Brimstone Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2003This wine tastes nothing like my understanding of the varietal, with aromas of green pepper, prune flavors, moderately tannic, medium finish. Little body. Don't bother.Brimstone Hill Vineyard Semi-Dry Riesling 2005Nice, not cloyingly sweet, perfectly balanced.
Read more: January
February 26, 2007
1970-01-01 00:59:59
Las Rocas Garnacha 2004This medium-body, deep plum purple wine offers up lush red fruit and nice acidity. A nice, medium-to-long finish may be a little rough but the overall balance is amazing in a wine costing $10-12 bottle. Wine-Flair Rating: A Solid 7
Read more: February
February 8, 2006
2007-03-09 15:15:00
Domaine du Bel Air Pouilly Fume 2004A New Zealand impostor. Very pale, almost clear. Strong grapefruit and green pepper on the nose, fresh crisp acidity and a medium to long finish.Paige 23 Santa Barbara Sauvignon Blanc 2005New world wine in a generously padded old-world suit. Pale yellow, with sweetish citrus aromas and perhaps a pineapple flavor, and no greenness at all. Soft and round, but perhaps a lit flabby. A kinder, gentler Sauvignon Blanc.Jean Touzot Macon Villages Vieilles Vignes 2005At $11 you can't go wrong. Light yellow with a honey and lightly-buttered nose, and maybe some toasted almond, this is nicely-balanced, soft and clean.Clos Julien Chardonnay San Luis Obispo 2005A fence-straddler. A deeper yellow with a lot of butter and lemon, solidly medium-bodied. Noticeable but not overwhelming oak. Halfway between old and new world.
Read more: February
March 10, 2007
2007-03-10 16:30:00
Chateau Gachon Montagne St. Emilion 2003 (Merlot) An untamed thoroughbred. Smoky, fairly tannic, and full of blackberry fruit, you can also taste the greenness of the 15% Cab Franc. Medium-bodied with a moderately long finish. This one will improve over the next 3-5 years. Benoni Merlot "Three Vineyards" Napa Valley 2002 Ready to drink. Just enough oak and tannin, and pretty lush for a Merlot. I don't share the view of many reviewers that this is a true Bordeaux-style wine, but it's not an overwhelming fruit bomb, either. Nice.
Read more: March
April 4, 2007
2007-04-05 00:31:00
Moondance 2004 ZinfandelZesty and plump like a Rubens, fleshed out with a little Petit Syrah. Enjoyed this immensely with some smoked Texas brisket at a decidedly different Passover Seder. Yee-Hava! Dyer Diamond Mountain District Cabernet 2002Like a fading Hollwood star -- good but asking for way too much $$. I liked that it was understated and subtle, not at all a fruit bomb, but a bit thin on the finish and didn't improve with decanting. Vina Albali (Spain) Valdepenas Reserva 1999Comforts like a fireplace on a brisk Autumn evening. 100% Tempranillo, vanilla, toast and smoke. Nice and easy.
Read more: April
April 8, 2007
2007-04-08 23:00:00
Chateau la Nerth, Chateauneuf du Pape, 2002A bantamweightweight champion...light-bodied but powerful, opens with bright cherry flavors, pepper and spice, with a satisfying medium finish. Credits to Dr. Dan of Team Lebo. KVW Pinotage 2003Riot control: A pepper-filled smoke bomb. Medium-bodied and rich, plummy and juicy with a long finish and just enough tannin to make you notice.
Read more: April
April 10, 2007
2007-04-10 16:10:00
Montcigale Coteaux d'Aix en Provence (Rose) 2005The Britney Spears of Rose. Looks attractive from a distance but there ain't much there. Has a lovely rose-petal nose and lively color, but it's ironically watery and rather harsh at the same time. Not France's best showing...cheap and tastes like it. Good enough for Imus, though.
Read more: April
April 16, 2007
2007-04-16 20:34:00
Concannon "Assemblage" Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2004Assemble this! For centuries we've had Bordeaux blends and then from the left coast, we had Meritage. Well, now we have "Assemblage" and thankfully it doesn't remind you of a Ford coming off the line at River Rouge. At 10,000 cases it's not really limited so much but it is a very interesting example of the varietal - full-bodied, with blackfruit, spice and even a little smoke. A nice bargain. Ballast Stone Petit Verdot 2003When second best is good enough. This example of a little-known varietal can't hold a candle (for decanting, naturally) to Murphy-Goode, but it's outstanding nonetheless and at about $15, a huge value. Lush, with a nose of lavender and rich with plum, blackcurrant and a hint of chocolate. Way to go, downunder!Cosme Palacio y Hermanos Cosecha (Rioja) 2004All Tempranillo, all the time. Another bargain wine at around twelve bucks - cherry and blackberry flavors, a little bit of black pepper and very n
Read more: April
April 16, 2007
2007-04-16 20:34:00
Concannon "Assemblage" Limited Release Cabernet Sauvignon 2004Assemble this! For centuries we've had Bordeaux blends and then from the left coast, we had Meritage. Well, now we have "Assemblage" and thankfully it doesn't remind you of a Ford coming off the line at River Rouge. At 10,000 cases it's not really limited so much but it is a very interesting example of the varietal - full-bodied, with blackfruit, spice and even a little smoke. A nice bargain. Ballast Stone Petit Verdot 2003When second best is good enough. This example of a little-known varietal can't hold a candle (for decanting, naturally) to Murphy-Goode, but it's outstanding nonetheless and at about $15, a huge value. Lush, with a nose of lavender and rich with plum, blackcurrant and a hint of chocolate. Way to go, downunder!Cosme Palacio y Hermanos Cosecha (Rioja) 2004All Tempranillo, all the time. Another bargain wine at around twelve bucks - cherry and blackberry flavors, a little bit of black pepper and very n
Read more: April
April 10, 2007
2007-04-10 16:10:00
Montcigale Coteaux d'Aix en Provence (Rose) 2005The Britney Spears of Rose. Looks attractive from a distance but there ain't much there. Has a lovely rose-petal nose and lively color, but it's ironically watery and rather harsh at the same time. Not France's best showing...cheap and tastes like it. Good enough for Imus, though.
Read more: April
April 8, 2007
2007-04-08 23:00:00
Chateau la Nerth, Chateauneuf du Pape, 2002A bantamweightweight champion...light-bodied but powerful, opens with bright cherry flavors, pepper and spice, with a satisfying medium finish. Credits to Dr. Dan of Team Lebo. KVW Pinotage 2003Riot control: A pepper-filled smoke bomb. Medium-bodied and rich, plummy and juicy with a long finish and just enough tannin to make you notice.
Read more: April
April 4, 2007
2007-04-05 00:31:00
Moondance 2004 ZinfandelZesty and plump like a Rubens, fleshed out with a little Petit Syrah. Enjoyed this immensely with some smoked Texas brisket at a decidedly different Passover Seder. Yee-Hava! Dyer Diamond Mountain District Cabernet 2002Like a fading Hollwood star -- good but asking for way too much $$. I liked that it was understated and subtle, not at all a fruit bomb, but a bit thin on the finish and didn't improve with decanting. Vina Albali (Spain) Valdepenas Reserva 1999Comforts like a fireplace on a brisk Autumn evening. 100% Tempranillo, vanilla, toast and smoke. Nice and easy.
Read more: April
March 18, 2007
2007-03-18 17:53:00
Stags' Leap Winery, Viognier, 2002This little-known Rhone Valley varietal makes a superb aperitif wine, and Stags' Leap* (which bills itself as the "original" so as not to be confused with "Stag's Leap") does it very well indeed.Structured and full-bodied, the 2002 hints of pear and fragrances, and perhaps a bit of lemon. The winemaker uses malolactic fermentation to soften the wine and yet give it a mouth-pleasing acidity. For those of us who take no pleasure in overly oaked and buttered Chardonnays, Viognier offers a wonderful alternative as a way to start a meal, or in this case of a recent wine party that I hosted, a way to begin a bacchanalian orgy of imbibition.*Carl Doumani, the original owner of Stags' Leap Winery (he sold to Beringer in 1997), had a small war going for years with Warren Winniarski of Stag's Leap Wine Cellars over the use of the name. Lots of lawyers made money, and in the end, the area received its own AVA designation "Stags Leap District" along the Silve
Read more: March
March 10, 2007
2007-03-10 16:30:00
Chateau Gachon Montagne St. Emilion 2003 (Merlot) An untamed thoroughbred. Smoky, fairly tannic, and full of blackberry fruit, you can also taste the greenness of the 15% Cab Franc. Medium-bodied with a moderately long finish. This one will improve over the next 3-5 years. Benoni Merlot "Three Vineyards" Napa Valley 2002 Ready to drink. Just enough oak and tannin, and pretty lush for a Merlot. I don't share the view of many reviewers that this is a true Bordeaux-style wine, but it's not an overwhelming fruit bomb, either. Nice.
Read more: March
February 8, 2007
2007-03-09 15:15:00
Domaine de Bel Air Pouilly Fume 2004A New Zealand impostor. Very pale, almost clear. Strong grapefruit and green pepper on the nose, fresh crisp acidity and a medium to long finish.Paige 23 Santa Barbara Sauvignon Blanc 2005New world wine in a generously padded old-world suit. Pale yellow, with sweetish citrus aromas and perhaps a pineapple flavor, and no greenness at all. Soft and round, but perhaps a lit flabby. A kinder, gentler Sauvignon Blanc.Jean Touzot Macon Villages Vieilles Vignes 2005At $11 you can't go wrong. Light yellow with a honey and lightly-buttered nose, and maybe some toasted almond, this is nicely-balanced, soft and clean.Clos Julien Chardonnay San Luis Obispo 2005A fence-straddler. A deeper yellow with a lot of butter and lemon, solidly medium-bodied. Noticeable but not overwhelming oak. Halfway between old and new world.
Read more: February
February 26, 2007
2007-02-26 19:06:00
Las Rocas Garnacha 2004This medium-body, deep plum purple wine offers up lush red fruit and nice acidity. A nice, medium-to-long finish may be a little rough but the overall balance is amazing in a wine costing $10-12 bottle. Wine-Flair Rating: A Solid 7
Read more: February
February 21, 2007: A Bunch o' Reds
2007-02-21 20:14:00
Chateau Tour Prignac, Medoc, Cru Bourgeois, 2004Most reviews of this wine are an example of the absurdity of reviewing a red Bordeaux shortly after bottling, or even in barrel. By nature these wines will be rough, tannic and green at that point, with their potential disguised or in doubt.This one was said by Wine Spectator to be "best after 2004." Duh. And as it's well after 2004, this wine, having had a little time to age and soften, is already drinking very nicely. Of medium body, with aromas of plum and black fruits, and tannins that are soft and light. The finish is a little short for my palate, and this wine won't hold up for more than a couple more years, but as an "everyday" red, it's excellent.About $14-17. Easy to find in NY and NJ.Domaine Capmartin L'espirit de Couvent, Madiran, 2001This is an amazing, wonderful blend but not for the faint of heart or palate. It's approximately 40% Tannat, 30% Cabernet Franc, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Fer Servadou. Until I dr
Read more: February
, Bunch
February 12, 2007 (Rose Wines)
2007-02-12 18:48:00
Pinot Grigio Ramato (Italy), 2005Ramato is the Italian word for copper, and this very light pink wine shines with a pale copper color while it delivers a strawberry flavor in a refreshing, dry style. This wine gives the lie to the notion that Pinot Grigio, a mutant of Pinot Noir (and also known as Pinot Gris), is produced only as a white. Just had a bottle with lobster bisque and prawns and it made a marvelous combination. Excellent value.Oriel Femme Fatale Rose Bordeaux 2003Dark...but not mysterious, this 100% Merlot Rose is perfect for summer but not light or frivolous. Thoroughly dry, ripe with strawberries and raspberries, and enough structure to stand up to the beef tenderloin I just enjoyed. A medium-long and very satisfying finish. Imagine that...a rose from Bordeaux. Outstanding. About $20.Wine-Flair Wine Rating: 7.5+
Read more: February
, Wines
January 28, 2007
2007-01-28 17:21:00
Brimstone Hill Vineyard Seyval Blanc 2005Very little nose, strong citrus aroma, crisply acidic, medium finish. Worth a try; I bought a couple bottles to taste as home.Brimstone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2004Young and green but promising. Lacks the earthy aroma that many Pinot aficionados enjoy. Black cherry fruit, nicely balanced and smooth.Brimstone Hill Vineyard Merlot 2004Presents typical varietal flavors and spice, a bit too acidic, may do ok after it ages and softens a bit. Brimstone Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2003This wine tastes nothing like my understanding of the varietal, with aromas of green pepper, prune flavors, moderately tannic, medium finish. Little body. Don't bother.Brimstone Hill Vineyard Semi-Dry Riesling 2005Nice, not cloyingly sweet, perfectly balanced.
Read more: January
January 23, 2007
2007-01-24 03:31:00
Other New York WinesRivendell Winery, SoHo Chardonnay 2005This non-ML, unoaked Chardonnay opens with a slight petrol aroma, but delivers an intensely lemon flavor. Crisply acidic, with a medium to long finish, and a real bargain at nine bucks. Rivendell 2005 Cabernet SauvignonFlavors of blackberry and a bit of smoke; light-to-medium bodied and a bit of spice. Interesting and enjoyable but not a good example of the varietal. Vineyard 48 Sauvignon Blanc 2005Reasonably well balanced and smooth, it lacked zest and did little for me. Not nearly as crisp as earlier vintages from this North Fork, Long Island winery. Pellegrini Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2002Light bodied, smoky, and crisp with a nice structure and black cherry fruit. Well done. Baldwin Vineyards Mist diGreco This blend of Chardonnay (70%) and Seyval Blanc (30%) offers an interesting earthy nose for a white. Lemon and butter flavors, a hint of sweetness, and a medium finish. Intriguing. Baldwin Vineyards "Memories" Brut Spa
Read more: January
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